Despite Dirty Burger being one of the more established players on the London burger scene, I had somehow inexplicably never actually been until a few short weeks ago, when a friend insisted I join him there for lunch, with the promise that it would blow my mind. Seeing as this one is walking distance from where I live (I don’t mind walking long distances), it seemed a sensible way to spend a lunch time.
So on a bright winter’s day we met around 1pm and grabbed a bench inside. Its not exactly a restaurant – much like the Patty & Bun at Liverpool Street it has a few seats if you want, but really seems to be aimed at a grab-n-go clientele. I ordered my standard order for when testing somewhere out (cheeseburger and chips/fries) and sat down to catch up with my mate. The food was ready very quickly, and so to business.
The prices were an interesting mix of very reasonable and sort of expensive feeling. £6 for a cheeseburger is very decent in one of the new-wave fancy-pants burger joints. At Meat Mission that’s £8, which is closer to typical than the price at Dirty Burger. But then by comparison, £3.50 for fries suddenly seemed rather expensive, even though £3-4 is about standard for a side like that in most places I frequent. I guess this is all perception though, and less than a tenner for a good quality cheeseburger and fries is a decent price, especially in a location like this (right opposite Boxpark in Shoreditch in The Tea Building, home of Shoreditch House, the same people who apparently are also behind Dirty Burger).
But I’m getting ahead of myself – was this a decent quality burger? Well, the fries were very good I thought – nice and fluffy inside, crispy outside, and well seasoned. Would happily accept those at any place, and you’d be amazed how many places do poor quality sides that seem to be a complete afterthought. These were a very good example, even if £3.50 for some cooked potato vs £6 for a cheeseburger seems a bit lopsided.
The burger though… sadly I can’t be so kind. I won’t say it was overdone, as I didn’t think to ask how they routinely do them. What I can say is that by the standards of the competition it seemed overdone. The pic below makes it look a lot pinker than it was, and the patty, despite being in a very messy, somewhat greasy setting, was a fraction dry and heavy. Compared to the likes of Patty & Bun or Bleecker Street Burger, it was a pale imitation of the glorious heights a juicy beef burger can reach. Of course, whether it was done to the level intended depends hugely on what mince they were using, whether they prepare it on-site from their own cuts or whatever – as I understand it legal requirements for the cooking of burgers are slightly different depending on how the beef patty is prepared. All this is speculation, I refer you to my “About” section and the fact I am not a professional food reviewer – hopefully I’ll get better at this and remember to ask these questions in future!
Another disappointing aspect is that a reasonable sized corner of the bun was stale – maybe less than a quarter, but noticeable nonetheless. In terms of taste, it was a decent burger patty, nice savoury beef flavour and seasoned to the right level, and I enjoyed the messy, somewhat mustardy sauce in the sandwich. But I found the texture a little on the heavy side compared to my personal preference, presumably as a result of it being well-done. The bun held together very well despite the saucy mess, and wasn’t intrusive to the flavour of its contents
My friend concurred that it wasn’t a fantastic experience, and this is something that has happened to me before – big somewhere up, take a mate, they serve up a plate of disappointment, feel foolish for being so bold about what they were going to eat. Really I should have asked about the burger and mentioned about the bun while I was there – I’m not the sort of Englishman that quietly chunters about these things, I’ll happily send things back in a restaurant if I’m unhappy, but for whatever reason the thought didn’t occur here. Maybe was because its more of a canteen/grab-n-go vibe, maybe because I was conscious of aiming to review it. I expect I’ll try them again – £6 and local to me is a heady combination of factors, and it certainly wasn’t a bad burger, just a bit of a let-down and not really pushing the buttons I feel need pushing to be a genuinely good one.